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If this will be your first time ordering from Banggood, you should know a few things.

I’ve tried to think of my non-US visitors throughout this whole Shopping List. This page is one where I’ll struggle with that. Most of these supplies, I source locally or from U.S. Amazon. And I won’t recommend a potentially-inferior product that I can’t vouch for. If you’re not from the U.S., I hope that you can find local equivalents. If you know of international dealers for any of these products, please contact me.


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I’ve tried a lot of different electrical tapes and this is hands-down my favorite. It molds snugly to the object it’s wrapping almost like heat-shrink. It sticks securely to itself and seldom comes loose. It’s perfect for taping ESCs to quadcopter arms, and that’s the main thing I use it for. (Incidentally, don’t use electrical tape for covering wire splices, except in a pinch. Heat shrink is the right material for that.)

I’m showing the red tape above, but it’s available in a bunch of different colors. The purchase link takes you to a search results page that shows them all.

3M 110

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Foam tape has two uses. The first use is (obviously) to stick things together. The other use is for vibration isolation and padding. I always put this tape underneath my ESCs so that they’re not directly against the quadcopter arms, where they’d get knocked around. I also commonly use it to stick my receiver on top of my flight controller. Finally, I’ll sometimes make a little stack of this tape to help snug something loose up against a zip tie.

I prefer the 1-inch wide version of this tape.


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Kapton tape is like translucent, non-stretchy electrical tape. Technically, its defining characteristic is that it isn’t affected by high temperatures, but that’s not why I use it. I use it basically any time I want to protect something electrical, but I still want to be able to see it. A great example is the receiver, which has LEDs and buttons that would be covered up by regular electrical tape.

If you’re well-prepared, you’ll use clear heat shrink instead of Kapton tape, but here’s why I don’t: because you have to know what size heat shrink to order before-hand, and I never seem to have the right size on hand. With Kapton tape, I can wrap up whatever I need.

3M 4011

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4011 is commonly referred to in modeling as “servo tape”. It’s so strong that you can mount a servo with nothing else and it’ll hold basically forever. 4011 is so strong that it can be used to mount bathroom mirrors to the wall, if you have enough of it.

4011’s strength is also its weakness. It’s so strong that I’ve had it literally pull parts off of a circuit board when I was trying to remove it. In fact, if you’re going to use it on electrical parts, I suggest using it sparingly so that you can safely remove the tape later if you need to.

The other disadvantage of 4011 is that it seems to refuse to stick to certain surfaces. I’ve never really been able to figure out the common link between what it will and won’t stick to.

110 foam tape is my primary go-to for mounting. But I always keep some 4011 around for times when I want to stick something down and know for sure it isn’t going anywhere.


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Why do you need a battery pad? Because without one, your battery will slide out from the battery straps in a crash. Ummagrip is a proprietary polymer blend, tuned by Ummagawd himself to be just sticky enough to hold onto your battery, and just firm enough to keep your battery from squishing into screw heads and being damaged. When it gets dusty, it can be restored to like-new simply by wiping it with a little bit of water.


Solder comes in several different blends, also known as alloys. 60/40 solder, which contains 60% tin and 40% lead, is the most commonly used. The newer 63/37 alloy is hands-down superior for the type of soldering we’re doing, and that’s all you’ll find on this page.

All of the solder on this page is also rosin-core. This means it contains a tiny bit of flux in its center so that you don’t have to apply any flux separately to the joint. You can just tin the pad or wire and know that the joint already contains the right amount of flux.

You’ll also notice that all of the solder on this page is leaded. Lead-free solder is harder to work with and produces worse results than leaded.

Is leaded solder bad for you? NO. Soldering temperatures are far, far too cold to vaporize lead. The fumes you see when soldering is the flux burning off (don’t breathe that). The main risk of lead exposure from soldering is lead particles on your hands. You can mitigate this simply by washing your hands after soldering. And don’t lick the solder.


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This is a fine solder, but it’s neither the highest quality nor the cheapest per gram on this list. So why is it even here?

Because sometimes you’d rather pay $10 for a 4 oz roll than $25 for a 1 lb roll, even if the 1 lb roll is a better deal.

And hey: it ships with Amazon Prime.

The product listing above contains several different sizes and amounts of solder. The 0.8mm thickness is great for basically everything you would want to do on a quadcopter.


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Kester makes high-quality soldering products, used by huge manufacturers and hobbyists alike. This solder has a no-clean rosin core. Normally, after soldering, you’re supposed to clean flux residue off the board with a Q-tip soaked in alcohol. No-clean flux is safe to leave on the board, which saves a step. (To be honest, many hobbyists skip this step anyway.)

This flux comes in a 1 lb roll, which means it’s way cheaper per gram than 4 oz rolls, but it’s more expensive up front.


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Flux is essential to a good solder joint. That’s why the recommended solder on this is rosin-core. For most joints, the flux that’s built into the rosin-core solder will be sufficient. But for re-work, you’ll often do best to add a bit more flux.

That’s where this flux pen comes in. Imagine that you’re putting a new set of motors onto your quad, and the ESCs have left-over solder on the pads. If you just try to solder the new motor wires to the old solder, it’ll try to stick to the soldering iron tip and form pointy peaks when you remove the iron from the joint. Put a little dab of flux onto the joint from this pen, and that problem is solved. Smooth, shiny, perfect joints.


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Silicone conformal coating paints onto your solder joints and dries to form a waterproof coating. If you ever land in dew-soaked grass, or if you might crash in the snow, you need this stuff. The beauty of silicone conformal coating is, if you ever need to solder over it, it burns off cleanly, so rework is a breeze.

What is the best tape, solder, heat shrink or glue for building FPV quadcopters? For a 100% honest opinion, check out our selection of FPV Materials and Supplies?