weed smell like fresh cut grass
I agree with Butthead, I’ve seen this question posed a few times and I haven’t even been here that long.
Not true – the curing process gets rid of the lawn mulch smell which is always there when you first dry your buds. Also see my post on “skipping curring.”
But I do agree we need a sticky for a lot of things. I think the main problem is that the search feature is for shit so people ask the same questions ad-infinitum.
If I had a dollar for ever time I answered this very same question I believe I could take a first class trip around the world and take the highest priced hooker in the world with me and have change left over.
This is just like déjà vu all over again!
I really, REALLY wish people would use the RIU search function and look for answers to their questions before starting the BILLIONTH thread asking the exact same question as all those before them did.
The odor is normal at first but it will go away with proper drying and curing but normally, at least not completely, it won’t without proper drying and curing.
Learn it, live it, love it.
Manicuring, Drying, And Curing Marijuana
Right after all the plants have been harvested, it is time to manicure them. Manicuring is simply cutting off the leaves that were growing from the buds.
Cut off all the leaves surrounding the bud, so that just the bud remains.
Work over a glass table or some kind of smooth flat surface.
This will make it easy to collect all the material that has been cut away from the buds. It is lower in THC than the buds, but rather than throw it away, you can use it to make hash oil .
When manicuring the buds, use a pair of scissors with small blades (to reach hard to get leaves) that is comfortable on your hands.
If you have a small crop, you can handle the plants with you bare hands. With a large crop, wear powder free latex gloves .
The latex gloves will collect trichome resin in a similar manner to the way live marijuana plants are rubbed to make hashish.
The latex gloves have to be powder free or the powder will get mixed into the resin.
Do not touch anything other than the plants once you have put the gloves on. If you have to do something, remove the gloves you are wearing and put them in a plastic bag, prior to doing whatever it is that has to be done.
When finished, put on a pair of new gloves. Material on the first pair can be collected later. When you are finished manicuring all the plants, remove the gloves and place them in a plastic bag (to catch resin that drops off).
Put the plastic bag with the gloves in a freezer for 2-3 hours. The trichome resin can easily be peeled from the frozen latex gloves and consumed the same way you would use hashish.
If absolutely necessary, you can wait to manicure the buds. However, the job will take more time if you wait.
Manicuring right after the plants are harvested will also speed the drying process.
Instead smoking marijuana directly after it is harvested and manicured, it is best to dry and cure it.
Some new growers might be in such a rush to try the marijuana that they don’t want to dry the crop, or they might be tempted to put buds in a microwave oven to dry them out.
Drying Marijuana After Harvest
You probably don’t want to smoke marijuana that is harsh and bad tasting.
If you do not take time to dry the bud, you will not get the best possible smell and taste your crop is capable of producing.
Proper drying and curing will also ensure maximum potency of the marijuana you have grown.
Marijuana is not potent just after harvest. Some of the THC is in a non-psychoactive acidic form.
Drying marijuana the right way will convert the non-psychoactive acidic compounds into psychoactive THC.
The area where the drying is done should be dark. Light and high temperatures (higher than about 80 degrees) will cause THC to break down into less desirable chemicals, this will lower the potency of the finished product.
A good way to dry the crop is to hang the buds upside-down by the stem, from some string or wire. The drying marijuana must have some circulation blowing over it at all times. A gentle breeze that circulates over all the plants is necessary.
A fan or two will circulate air within the drying room. Fans will aid in drying the plants evenly, and reducing the chances of mold. If mold starts and is allowed to grow, it might ruin all of your crop. Mold looks like white fuzz and has an odor that is unpleasant.
You will have to keep the temperature and humidity within a certain range for optimal results.
Conditions should remain constantly somewhere within the following ranges, temperature should be between 65-75 degrees F, relative humidity should be between 45%-55%.
At temperatures lower than 65 degrees, drying time will be lengthened.
At temperatures higher than 75 degrees, the heat will cause the outer portion of the bud to dry quicker than the inner part, and the taste will suffer.
At humidity levels lower than 45%, the marijuana will dry too fast and the taste will suffer.
At humidity levels higher than 55%, the marijuana will take a long time to dry, and it will be prone to mold.
Keep a hygrometer and a thermometer in the drying area, close to the plants. A hygrometer will allow you to keep an eye on the relative humidity level in the room and a thermometer will display the temperature.
have built in thermometers so you can measure the temperature and humidity together.
Depending on the time of year and your location, a heater or an air conditioner may be necessary to adjust the temperature.
To control humidity, a dehumidifier can lower humidity and a humidifier can be used to raise humidity.
There are warm mist humidifiers and cool mist humidifiers.
A warm mist humidifier will raise the temperature while a cool mist humidifier will not affect the temperature.
There are also humidifiers that allow you to switch between warm or cool mist.
If you are going to purchase a humidifier for this purpose, take your climate into consideration and buy an appropriate humidifier.
Warm mist models will actually heat the water and release warm humidity.
Cool mist water isn’t cooled, it just means that water is not heated.
In most cases a cool mist will work best. To be safe you can get a humidifier that lets you switch between warm and cool mist.
It will take at least a week or two to dry the crop with temperatures between 65-75 degrees F and relative humidity between 45%-55%.
You will know when the marijuana is dry if the stems snap or break (rather than fold) when they are bent.
Try smoking a small bud (1/2 gram or less) in a joint to be sure it is dry enough.
At this time, small buds will be dry enough to smoke. But larger buds should be cured (slow dried) to ensure that the marijuana is as potent and tasty as possible.
If necessary, you can set aside buds that are less than 1/2 gram for smoking, while larger buds cure.
The cure lasts a week or two. The aim of what you are doing is evenly finishing the slow dry process, so that mold will not grow when the buds are stored long term.
Also, by the end of the cure, any remaining inactive THC will be converted to active THC (that increases potency).
To cure the crop, you will need one or more containers made out of glass or plastic.
Some people say plastic can impart a taste to the marijuana. Personally, plastic containers that some types of roll your own tobacco are sold in, have no negative effect on the taste.
Containers that have a rubber seal work best, but any type of container with a tight fitting lid will do.
One quart canning jars do a very good job if you are curing a few pounds or less. They have a rubber seal and hold 2 or more ounces of marijuana per one quart jar.
When curing quantities in excess of a few pounds, large (over 40 quarts) plastic storage boxes
They are not air tight, but will do the job when smaller air tight containers are not practical.
Gently place your marijuana in the containers (cut buds to size if the are too big to fit in the container) and put the top on.
Store the containers in a dark area where the temperature is between 50-65 degrees and the humidity is between 40%-60%.
You will have to open the containers for a few minutes to allow moisture to escape by fanning with your hand.
If any moisture builds up on the inside of the cap on your container, wipe it off.
Do this preferably 2-6 times daily, at regular 4-12 hour intervals.
You should also re-arrange the buds by giving them a quarter-turn once a day. This will ensure that different parts of the buds are exposed to the air in the container.
Keep up this routine for 7-10 days. When properly dried, marijuana will burn evenly when smoked in a joint (if stems are removed).
The taste will be as good as it can be, and the THC will have reached a point where it is ready to be ingested or stored.
You can keep any marijuana that will be consumed within a few months (1 year maximum) in the same containers used for curing, without having to keep opening them to release moisture.
If the marijuana is to be stored for more than a few months, you can use a vacuum sealer (designed for storing food) to seal the marijuana in an airtight environment.
If stored in a dark area that is between 40-55 degrees F, the marijuana in vacuum sealed plastic will remain potent for up to 5 years.
Dry marijuana can be stored in a frost-free freezer, but some of the THC on the outer part of the buds may be damaged when frozen.
A refrigerator is in the right temperature range but they tend to be humid (unless you can control the humidity).
If stored in an area of high humidity for months or years, even vacuum sealed marijuana can eventually become as humid as the surrounding air. This will necessitate drying it again before smoking. But, unless mold develops, humidity itself will not degrade the THC or make the marijuana any less potent.
Light will degrade some of the THC, so dark containers can be used for storage.
If you place the marijuana in a see through container, it will have to be located in a dark area that is not exposed to light or high temperatures.
Always make sure to properly dry your marijuana prior to storage, if you grow your own or if the stuff you have is very moist.
And remember that to preserve marijuana potency at a maximum level, keep any exposure to air, heat, and light at a minimum.
why dose my weed smell like fresh cut grass every time? i must be doing some thing wrong
Harvest: This is why we do it all…
Your buds are ready for harvest, yet your job as a grower is not quite over yet.
Before you use your freshly harvested buds, you must prepare your buds with a process known as curing, which involves drying your buds slowly in a controlled environment.
Growers cure buds for many reasons. If you started with great genetics and you’ve taken care of your marijuana plants properly during their life, than curing is what will make the difference between “just okay” and trophy-worthy buds.
A big part of why buds from medical marijuana dispensaries or cannabis cups often seem so special is they have been expertly cured. People who have never experienced buds prepared this way will often be amazed by the smooth, pleasant experience of slow cured buds.
Why Do Growers Cure Buds After Harvest?
Here’s what drying and curing properly does for you…
Breaks down chlorophyll and dramatically improves taste of buds
Gets rid of the unpleasant “fresh hay” or “cut grass” smell which is common on newly harvested buds
Brings out the subtle flavors and unique smell of your cannabis strain
Reduces “harshness” in buds; you’re less likely to start coughing or get a headache
Buds are less likely to cause anxiety, racing thoughts, or paranoia
Increases storage time; you can store properly dried/cured buds for years and buds will retain most of their original potency
Reduces the chance of mold growing on your buds
Curing may also actually increase potency! Read on to learn more…
In most cases, a proper cure will change the subjective effects of buds. There is something that happens during a slow curing process which changes the exact composition of cannabinoids and terpenoids. This changes how buds make you feel.
Don’t believe me? Try smoking buds directly off the plant vs smoking those same buds after they’ve been dried/cured.
Many growers feel that drying buds slowly and proper curing will actually make buds more potent up to a point. Growers also report that properly cured buds are much more pleasant to smoke, vaporize, or turn into edibles. This is likely due to how cannabinoids and terpenoids are altered during the curing process.
So now you may be wondering…
How do you dry your buds slowly?
How do you know how long to dry your buds for?
How do you cure buds perfectly every time, without leaving anything to chance?
Get the complete step-by-step tutorial right here!
Curing Marijuana: Overview
Curing begins as soon as you cut down your plant.
The most important part of the curing process happens during the first few days, as you begin drying your buds. During this initial drying phase, the main goal is to let your buds dry out slowly (usually 4-14 days) while protecting buds against mold.
A long, slow drying process (along with smart curing practices) will give you the best benefits. Any time you “speed dry” your freshly harvested buds, you’re basically losing all the benefits of curing.
Here’s an overview of the process. Click pic for step-by-step tutorial with complete instructions…
Note: Right after you harvest your plant, the most important part of the curing process is drying your buds SLOWLY, over a couple of days to a week or more.
This is why buds which are dried in a dehydrator, via dry ice, or in a microwave taste terrible, smell even worse, and often leave you with a migraine. When you quick-dry your buds, you are completely skipping over the most important part of the curing process.
Once you remove all moisture from the buds, curing comes to a halt. Completely dry buds won’t cure any further.
Trying to re-hydrate buds afterwards usually will not restart the curing process. All re-hydration can do is reduce the brittleness of over-dried buds. Therefore if buds become too dry too fast, curing stops and you lose nearly all of the further taste/smell/potency benefits.
Now I will walk you through a step-by-step process so you can produce a professional cure every time, with no guesswork involved.
This method will work for you even if you’re just starting out and have never cured buds before. No matter what previous experience you have curing buds, this will show you how to ensure they come out connoisseur-quality every time.
Ready to get started?
About Nebula Haze:
Medical marijuana has saved my life, and I’m dedicated to showing you how easy it can be to grow your own medical-grade buds.
I have made it my mission in life to build the best FREE growing resources available for new and advanced growers, while also working to get marijuana legalized for everyone.
Are You Ready To Go Pro With Your Garden?
I know you are dedicated to growing the best marijuana possible.
Advanced growing techniques are not for the faint of heart.
Learn the most advanced growing tactics and techniques right here:
FOR SERIOUS GROWERS ONLY
You need to learn this plant’s language if you want to grow real chronic buds and get the best yields possible.
So you could spend years and years learning from trial and error…
Or you can take the shortcut to consistently producing outstanding results by learning from real growers who have done all the work for you.
Every experienced grower has their own grow style, and over time as you get exposed to more info, you will begin to finely tune your personal grow style.
Now, there is a lot of great info in Ryan Riley’s Growing Elite Marijuana book. If you read the entire thing from front to back, even a totally experienced grower will learn something, and probably a whole lot of things. For a beginner, this book has literally everything you will need to know.
As you probably know, the growing forums can be a rough place to learn how to grow weed, You must be on the lookout for bad information and will always be second-guessing whether this or that person in the forums actually knows what they’re talking about. That’s why investing in growing books by known pros will pay off in the long run.
I’ve read several marijuana books over the last decade (read some of my reviews about the best growing marijuana books), and learned a lot from all of them. Each book I’ve read has leveled up my growing skills .
Now the price tag for this resource is pretty high, so it’s only recommended for growers who want to go pro with their growing skills. Still, I’m glad that I invested in this book, and I definitely have gotten my money’s worth out of it 100x over via increased yields and saved time/frustration. If the price of this book is going to kill your growing budget, than you are going to have a tough time growing elite marijuana anyway. 😉
This book isn’t for you if you’re just looking to grow a tiny amount of buds to smoke a few times a year.
Yet if you’re a daily smoker like me and are dedicated to growing a constant supply of chronic buds for as cheap and easy as possible, you’ll be glad you invested in Ryan Riley’s ultimate guide to growing.
Learn how to cure marijuana buds like a professional.