Planting Marijuana Seeds After Germination

Buy Quality Marijuana seeds at Amsterdam Seed Supply – How often should you water Marijuana Seeds? – ✓ High Quality Strains✓ Award winning genetics Seed Starting, Part 2: What To Do After Germination Check out our latest tutorial video below about what to do with your seeds after they have started to germinate (when they’ve started to grow). It's a few weeks before spring, and gardeners everywhere are starting baby plants from seed. Germinating seeds isn't usually a difficult process, and for most veggies the process is quite simple. But what's a gardener to do if they're having problems germinating seeds? The first thing to check is

How Often Should You Water Marijuana Seeds?

After the hassle of choosing a seed and getting it to sprout then grow, another of the big questions is how often should you water marijuana seeds until they germinate. You should not water marijuana seeds once you place them to germinate in a warm moist place. If you give your marijuana seeds water very often you will drown the seedling and it won’t be able to crack out of its seed.

Now that the Marijuana seed has germinated, how often should you water Marijuana seeds?

Once it germinates though, how often you should water marijuana seedlings varies according to the temperature of where the marijuana seeds are growing, but as a rule of thumb, you should water the marijuana plant once the soil is dry. An easy way to tell is if you try and lift the edge of the pot with one finger; if it feels “light” then it’s time to water, if not then leave it a few more days to evaporate and check back often to water. Usually, when you follow this technique, it helps with the formation of trichomes on your marijuana plants during the flowering phase which is equal to dank-er flowers.

You might also find our FAQ submission How Do I Feed A Plant? useful!

Seed Starting, Part 2: What To Do After Germination

Check out our latest tutorial video below about what to do with your seeds after they have started to germinate (when they’ve started to grow). Then keep scrolling for some tips and links to help you out! If you missed the first video on How to Successfully Start Seeds, be sure to check that out first, as it will get you started on growing a great garden – whatever your skill level.

>> Download: When to Start Seeds Indoors

We also have for you an easy-to-follow written guide on when to start what.

1. Light

Your seedlings will need light, but they also need periods of rest (darkness) too. A good rule of thumb is to turn the grow lamps off when you go to sleep, and turn them on when you wake up (or use a timer). Read all about different types of grow lights here.

Seedlings need blue night and red light. Sunlight includes both. Red light stimulates the growth of leaves and flowers. Blue light regulates the growth/size of plants.

Don’t use incandescent light, use fluorescent. Full spectrum bulbs include both red and the blue light, or you could use one warm (red) light and one cool (blue) light.

The grow lamp should be about 2-4 inches above the seedlings, so adjustable lights are helpful. You can find the Tabletop Garden Starter® Grow Light Kit shown in the video (and in the photo above) from Gardener’s Supply.

Be sure you clean the lightbulbs, as dust and dirt can cut down on the amount of light emitted.

Hold your hand above the seedlings. If it feels warm, the light is too close.

2. Water

Water from below, not above, to ensure that you don’t squash the seedlings. Make sure your seedlings aren’t sitting in water, or you’ll have issues with rotting, fungus, and soil gnats.

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Your seedlings might need to be watered if:

  • The soil looks lighter
  • The soil pulls away from the edge of the cell

Self-watering seed starting kits use capillary mats, but be sure to check the water levels on those as well.

3. Food

Seedlings need food when they get their “true leaves.” The first leaves that come up are typically embryonic leaves from the cotyledon (part of the seed) so look for the second (“true”) leaves to appear before you start fertilizing. Use fertilizer at a weaker strength than you would for full-sized plants.

There are several different options for how to fertilize your seedlings. The ones shown in the video are Sustane Compost Tea Bags and Alaska Fish Fertilizer 5-1-1 Concentrate 1 Quart

4. Airflow

Your seedlings will be healthier and more sturdy if air is flowing above and around them. A fan can be used – we recommend putting it on a timer, just like your grow lights.

5. Room to Grow

Most people put more seeds than are needed in each cell, so you’ll need to either (carefully) pull out the weaker ones from each cell, leaving one healthy one, or cut them off at the base. Monica demonstrates both methods in the video.

Be sure to check your seed packet to see how long it should take your seeds to germinate. If no seedling has appeared by a few days later than expected, sow some new seeds.

6. A Bigger Pot (optional)

It’s not needed, but if you’re not moving your seedlings into a garden for several weeks, you might want to transfer them to a larger container. If your plant is about two times the size of the container it’s in, or you can start to see roots below the cell, you might want to move it to give it more room to develop, access to more nutrients and more moisture, and the roots will have more space to grow. A 3 to 4″ pot should work well.

If you’re reusing pots, be sure you wash them well before you use them.

You can also use Eco-friendly Seed-starter Cowpots, which you eventually plant into the ground, adding nutrients and organic matter to the soil.

Use a potting mix (such as the Organic Potting Mix, 20 Qts. from Gardener’s Supply) when you transplant your seedlings. Make sure that it is adequately moist – if you grab a handful and squeeze it, it should hold together, but if you move your hand, it should fall apart (see the video at about the 23 minute mark for a demonstration of this).

When transplanting, never grab a seedling by the stem, or you could damage or kill the plant. It’s better to try to push it up from the bottom of the cell, and try to take it out in one piece.

After transplanting, be sure to still water your seedling from below.

Important note: when you do move your seedlings outside, you need to do something called “hardening off,” which is slowly exposing them to the conditions they will encounter in your garden.

7. Label

Be sure to label your seedlings so you know what they are!

Ones shown in the video include ones similar to these seed markers. The garden stakes from Botanical Interests are currently sold out. One of our YouTube viewers also suggested using venetian blinds as labels. We thought that was a great idea!

What are you growing from seed this spring? Let us know in the comments below! And don’t forget to subscribe to our YouTube Channel.

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Disclaimer – All opinions expressed here are those of the author based on personal experience using the product.

Please note that the Amazon and Gardener’s Supply links (and only the Amazon and Gardener’s Supply links) above are affiliate links. Should you choose to purchase products through these links, GPReview will make a small commission (at no extra cost to you) that helps to support this website and our gardening product reviews. Thank you!

About The Author

Sarah, originally from Wisconsin, prefers to be outdoors whenever possible. She has been known to high-five trees on hikes, tests the limits of her balance on kayaks, and is re-discovering a love of cycling. She works behind-the-scenes at the Gardening Products Review, located in sunny Tucson, Arizona.

5 Fatal Mistakes For Germinating Seeds

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It’s a few weeks before spring, and gardeners everywhere are starting baby plants from seed. Germinating seeds isn’t usually a difficult process, and for most veggies, the process is quite simple.

For complete instructions for starting seeds, get the seed starting guide.

But what do you do if your seeds don’t germinate?

When seeds don’t sprout, you should always take time to evaluate what happened. So I thought it would be helpful to talk about the most common reasons you might have seed germination problems.

Some years our germination is a little patchy, and occasionally whole rows of seedlings will not germinate. It is important to keep up with our germination rate to evaluate our technique and seed health.

For us, a minimum acceptable germination rate is when at least 80% of our seeds sprout. But ideally, 100% of our seeds come up, so anything less than 80 or even 90% germination rate, and we start looking at what went wrong.

Learn the 5 fatal mistakes for germinating seeds

When vegetable seeds are not germinating, there are a few common problems that you should look for.

1. You used old seeds

The first thing to consider is whether the seeds were viable in the first place. If your seeds have not sprouted within the appropriate number days (this will depend on your seeds), then you may want to consider using a pen or pencil to gently dig around in your soil and find the seed.

  • If you don’t find the seed, think back. Did youforget to put the seeds into the mix? Don’t laugh! It could happen!
  • If you find the seed, take a good look at it. You may see that it looks just the way it did when you put it in the soil. In this case, the cause for a low germination rate might be that it was an old seed or not properly stored.

If you have some old seeds and are unsure of whether your seeds were viable, you can always sprout a couple of them in a wet paper towel to check prior to planting.

For new seeds or seeds you saved last year:

  • When you saved seed, did you put them away without letting them dry completely? This can cause seeds to rot or mold.
  • Were they exposed to extreme temperatures during storage? For example, if you left seed packs in your car over the summer. High temperatures over 90 can kill the plant inside the seed.
  • Was the parent plant healthy? Seeds can harbor infection from the parent plant that may prevent sprouting, however, this is not usually the case.

2. You didn’t use new or sterilized containers

Disease issues can be a factor in seed germination. Think back to last year and whether you had any disease issues with your seedlings.

  • Most plastic containers can be reused for several years, but they need to be sanitized.
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We clean ours by submersing them in bleach water at the beginning of the season.

If you are looking for a bleach alternative, try the environmentally friendly bleach alternatives that use hydrogen peroxide as their active ingredient.

Fungal and mold infections are the most common infection from dirty containers. If infection occurs you will notice a fuzzy growth on the top of the planting medium.

  • You may also see that a seed sprouts, but then rots at its base and falls over.

This is called damping off and is caused by a funal infection in your soil. A hydrogen peroxide or colloidal silver solution can help treat fungal disease on your tender plants.

3. Your technique is not right

  • If you started seeds in any mix that includes non-sterilized soil from the yard, your seeds may have been affected by disease organisms in the soil.

In order to use garden soil for starting seeds, you should sift it carefully to remove sticks and clumps. Then bake it on a cookie sheet in the oven at 180 degrees for 30 minutes. That should kill most weeds and pathogens.

You’re better off using a seed starting mix. Seed starting mix is usually a soiless mixture that has a finer grain and is free of clumps, sticks, and pathogens.

  • Did you plant your seeds too deep?

Planting your seeds too deep can cause problems with sprouting. You should also avoid pressing down on top of your seeds after you plant them. If the soil in your container is too compacted, the seeds cannot sprout or form healthy roots.

4. You didn’t provide the correct temperature

The temperature of your soil is of utmost importance in getting a good seed germination.

  • Temperatures that are too high or too low can cause problems germinating seeds.

Given all else is equal, even tray germination requires even temperatures. If temperatures plunge at night, or peak over 100 for a prolonged period, seeds will either remain dormant or die.

  • Did you leave the heat mat too high or too low?

Even when using seed starting heat mats, accidents happen. If you forget to put the temperature probe into the seed tray, the heat mat can overheat and cook the seeds.

Sometimes heat mats get accidentally turn off, or you forget to plug it in.

An alternative to the heat mat is to put them in a sunny south facing window or on top of the refrigerator. You can also use grow lights to provide heat above, and I have even seen people use rope lights to generate warmth.

5. You watered incorrectly

Seeds need to be moderately moist to sprout.

  • Seed germination is highly dependent on watering. Too dry and they won’t get the message to sprout, too wet and they will rot in the dirt.

Very young seedlings are even more tender. Seedlings do best in what we call the “Goldilocks zone.” You know Goldilocks. She likes her porridge not too hot and not too cold, but juuust right.

  • Tender seedling babies can’t tolerate drying out. While young, even a short dry period can mean death after the first wilt.

On the other hand, their tender roots will be the first victim of conditions being too wet. They can’t get the oxygen they need to carry about their business, and it will stunt or kill the seedling.

What other problems have you had germinating seeds?

If you’ve had troubles germinating seeds and this article didn’t answer your question, leave me a comment below. I’m happy to help you work out what’s going on.