hbwr seeds extraction

Hbwr seeds extraction

HBWR: To dose, you don’t have to remove all the shell, but just take a pocket knife and scrape all the “dark-brown” stuff off until the seed is completely a “creme” color.

Items you will need:

  • 128 HBWR seeds (No hulls); seeds only. Or 3,500 MGseeds.
  • A 50ml liquor bottle. These are the small ‘airplane’-sized ones. It should state 50ml on it.
  • A quantity of non-polar solvent. Coleman’s White gas is perfect.
  • 190 proof Everclear, or Vodka. Ethanol. (Bacardi 151)
  • A small funnel comes in handy.
  • A couple small jars with good lids.
  • Some coffee filters.

Extraction Instructions:

  1. Grind the seeds to a powder in a coffee grinder. Place the powder into a small jar and pour in enough of the White gas to fully cover the seeds. You can’t really use too much, but leave enough room so it shakes well. Screw on the lid and shake well for a few minutes. Let it sit for an hour or so, shaking every so often. Shaking is good.
  2. Pour the seed / solvent solution through a coffee filter and let it drain. Putting the coffee filter into a funnel first works well. The solvent is no longer needed but can be re-used, so save it. Spread out the seed mush on the coffee filter which it is in, on a plate or something, and let the seeds fully dry out. You should smell no solvent when it’s fully evaporated. It may take a couple of hours. Don’t breathe the solvent fumes, if you can help it.
  3. Once the seeds are fully dried place the powder into a clean small jar, with a good tight fitting lid. Fill the 50ml liquor bottle with your Ethanol (this is to measure it) and then dump that amount into the small jar with the seed powder. Shake well. This should sit for 3 days and shake it whenever you think of it.
  4. Okay 3 days have passed, it’s almost time. Again, stick a coffee filter in a funnel and then pour the Ethanol / Seed solution into the filter. Let it drain thoroughly. Once it’s close you can squeeze out excess alcohol, but be careful not to break the filter. You can now discard the seeds, as the good stuff is in the alcohol solution that’s left.
  5. Now pour the solution into the 50ml liquor bottle and let it sit for a couple of hours. Any seed powder remaining in the solution will settle to the bottom. Once it has, pour off the alcohol, rinse the seed crap out of the bottle, and pour the alcohol solution back in. Add enough of the clean alcohol to fill the bottle and you’re done.
  6. You now have 50ml of drinkable alcohol containing the extract from 150 HBWR seeds, which should be a yellowish, clear liquid, that looks much like tequila.
  7. Normal dosage of HBWR is 5-12 seeds, MG about 200-400 seeds and it’s easy to measure. You can either get an oral syringe at any drug store that has a 1-5ml gradated gauge on the side, or use measuring spoons. 1tsp=5ml of liquid. 1ml of the ‘tincture’ = 3 seeds. I’ve found that 3ml of the liquid works very well. Mix with water, or anything else.
  8. This method works very well, is easy to dose, easy to prepare, and you should not experience any nausea. Also, because the LSA’s are extracted they take way less longer to start working. Expect to feel the effects within an hour.
  9. Keep your little bottle in the fridge. Heat is bad for all tryptamines.
  10. Something to note: You can evaporate off the alcohol and you will be left with the alkaloids which you can put into gel caps etc. But, this is harder to dose, etc. I’ve found the alcohol method very easy and precise.



The method I use is a general one – I copied it from one used by some scientists to extract mescaline from peyote, but I have since seen close variations used on many plants. This procedure is followed, whenever a plant is studied for its alkaloids. A few ingredients and bits of equipment are necessary. I am a chemist, and have my own chemistry set. I have considered manufacture, but I find that there are enough interesting things to do just extracting natural compounds, which is much easier, indeed, possible in the home.

You will need:

A few flasks, glass containers, etc. of suitable sizes, depending on how large a volume you are playing with. A separating funnel is almost essential – this could be tricky to get without a little effort. If you don’t know, it is an inverted conical flask with a hole at the top to pour stuff in , and a tap at the bottom to let the stuff out accurately . It is used for separating immiscible layers. A vacuum filtration apparatus would be very useful; I did have a bodgy one rigged up myself, but it was always difficult to use. Some kind of still, though, is pretty important to have, although conceivably for a once off you could get by without it, if you don’t mind breathing in a lot of solvent. As far as still goes it is to recover solvent, and leave goodness as a residue at the bottom. I use a bit of quickfit I nicked: a round bottom flask, short column, thermometer on top, and a small condenser. takes for ever, but don’t expect to follow this procedure in anything under a day. Other bits and pieces: A filtre of some sort is a necessity; preferably a good one, with a vacuum pump if you are filtring gluggy stuff (cactus is the worst, sticky goo, e.g., other things like seeds and bark are better).

People have been known to use such devices as coffee filtres, t-shirts, tins with holes in the bottom (as a filtre press) and so on. Whatever you can scrounge. A lab buchner funnel, sidearm flask, and venturi pump are ideal. All this stuff is standard in any chemical lab, regardless of discipline. (cont’d in part ii) CTION part ii: Chemicals necessary: The paydirt (obviously) Some solvents: methanol (lots), and a non polar solvent. Some people use ether – this is dangerous and doesn’t dissolve everything. Your best bet is probably something chlorinated – I use dichloromethane, although chloroform will do (don’t breath too much – it is fun at first, but ends up making you feel ill). Drycleaning fluid. petrol. I don’t know what you have access to.

Dichloromethane is good because it is non-toxic, volatile, and a good solvent. It has a major drawback: separation is often very difficult once you have placed your gluggy plant muck in there. The shot is to use large quantities of everything, and be patient. You will also need an acid (Hydrogen chloride is good) and a base/alkali (Sodium hydroxide is good – that way, if you stuff up, you end up synthesizing salt instead of something nasty.) Also useful: acid/base indicator paper, boiling chips (porcelain grains) and activated charcoal – see local chemist.

The idea is this: Most fun compounds (the only exception is maybe THC, and alcohol if you count that) are basic – they contain nitrogen. So: in general, if you react them with hydrochloric acid, the form a water soluble chloride. If you react them with dilute base in the aqueous phase, they go back to being a base, which is insoluble in water, but soluble in organic non-polar solvents (like CH2Cl2). So, the theory is, that only a base will go from water to solvent and back to water etc. when changed from acidic to basic and back to acidic. This gives you a way of removing all the other crap which is not alkaloid from a sample. That is the theory. When I do this, if I can get down to some brown or green sludge that I can throw down or smoke, I am happy with a good days work. Ideally, you should end up with lovely white crystals, but I think that would require a lot of time and effort, and indeed a considerable loss of product in the process.


Get your stuff. Dry it as much as possible – this makes life easier later on. You will never get all the water out, but too bad. Chop it up as fine as possible: a blender comes in handy. You may wish to chop then dry. A word of caution : try to avoid exposing your stuff to excessive heat. I dry in low heat oven. Heat and air destroy good compounds from upwards of 100 degs C. All this bit will depend on exactly what you are extracting. Once it is finely divided – powdered if possible, put it in a big container, and cover it with methanol. Alternatives to methanol here are ethanol (not as good) and acetone (good solvent – rips the crap out of anything, but is more reactive – can react with your actives). Now, depending on what your stuff is, you have to let the methanol have time to remove it all. This is best done by leaving in a quiet warm place for a few days, even up to a week, and shaking it occasionally so it is mixed. Some papers recommend solvent extraction (soxhlet apparatus) and refluxing at the boiling point of the methanol (80 degs or so – I can’t remember). I usually just rely on time to get the good stuff out. When you are ready (early in the morning), filtre the muck, to give you methanol+dissolved brown gunk, and a residue soaked with methanol. The residue still contains a lot of good stuff, so soak again for an hour, and repeat, and do a third time if you are feeling generous (3 is the magic number in extraction work).

When you are done, there is another thing you can do finally, if desired: depending on what your stuff is, mix it up with dilute hydrochloric acid, 1M is appropriate. let stand for an hour, then filtre (this may be very difficult) That will get the last of the alkaloids out of the substrate. (continued in part iii) EXTRACTION part iii You now have a methanol-plant stuff mixture, and a dilute HCL-plant stuff mixture, if you bothered to do that part. Evaporate the methanol, to leave a small amount of goo. This will contain water, a bit of methanol, and all kinds of resins and muck, and if you are lucky, the alkaloids. If a very quick and crude extraction was all that was desired, then after stripping the last of the methanol with vacuum if possible, this residue could be smoked eaten or whathaveyou. I leave that to your discretion.

However, if a cleaner product is desired, the double layer extraction will need to be performed. Combine the evaporated methanol gunge with the hydrochloric acid filtrate if you have any. If you don’t then mix the methanol stuff with an excess of dilute (1M) HCl. Feel free to filtre again at this point. Anything of marginal solubility here is no good to you. Get the stuff as clean as possible. Boiling with activated charcoal is another useful trick for removing gunge. Just boil it up, and filter off the charcoal for a cleaner brew. You should now have an acid aqueous solution of alkaloids and water solubles from the plant. Take your acidic solution, and bassify. This is done by mixing in dilute sodium hydroxide (I use up to 5M to save on total volume. Be careful with conc NaOH – apart from eating skin, it eats alkaloids) As you mix in the NaOH, you will see swirls of white precipitate form and redissolve. Continue until the white swirls stay, and until the solution is quite cloudy. Indicator paper is necessary to see that the solution is basic.

If you can’t get indicator paper, you can make an indicator by boiling up some purple flowers. The dyes in most flowers go bright red in acid, and green in strong alkali. Just a drop of dye and a drop of mixture should tell you what is acid or base.

The white precipitate is the alkaloids. The more the better. Next, add equal volume of non-polar solvent (dichloromethane) to the mix. Place in separating funnel, and shake. Separate. This may be very difficult or slow. Adding more solvent, more basic water, etc. may help. Adding lots of salt to the water layer will help break an emulsion. Ideally you want it do this step 3 times – to extract as much as possible from the water layer into the organic. I find this part very difficult, and you have to accept that you will lose quite a lot of material here. It is, however probably easier with some plants that others: cactus is very difficult, barks and seeds would be easier. Use plenty of salt, and agitate to separate. When you have finished extraction, chuck the basic water layer. The solvent layer is kept, and can be backwashed with salty water for a cleaner mixture.

The solvent can now be dried, (using salt or some dry powder, the filtred) (I don’t usually bother with this – the old hairdryer at the end can remove some last solvent and water) then strip the solvent in a vacuum to get your final product – some kind of syrup could be expected. This is super concentrated, but may only be half the strength of the original. e.g. put in enough for 10 doses of morning glory seeds, get back 5 doses or more of concentrated alkaloids. If it is desired to take the process still further, you can do the obvious thing – mix your solvent layer with dilute acid again and extract back into water. Acid layer could be evaporated under vacuum to give salts of alkaloids. Alternatively, if the organic layer were scrupulously dry, bases could be salted out with some organic acid – a tartrate, oxalate could be formed. I have never bothered with such things – you would need a lot of pure extract to be bothered.

The acid-base extraction process can be continued as many times as is desired. If a truly pure product is desired, the only way to go from here is chromatography. I have never used this at home, and wouldn’t think it was worth the trouble, but there will be papers available on what was used for a particular extraction case.

Hbwr seeds extraction HBWR: To dose, you don’t have to remove all the shell, but just take a pocket knife and scrape all the “dark-brown” stuff off until the seed is completely a “creme”

Simple LSA extraction

This guide is provided for informational and educational purposes only. We do not encourage you to break the law and cannot claim any responsibility for your actions.

WARNING: Always start with lower doses due to differences between individual body weight, tolerance, metabolism, and personal sensitivity. See responsible use section.

DISCLAIMER: PW’s dosage information is gathered from users and resources for educational purposes only. It is not a recommendation and should be verified with other sources for accuracy.

This article serves to document a procedure for the extraction of LSA from LSA-containing seeds which have not been subject to any additional preparation.


  • 1 Precautions
  • 2 Materials
  • 3 Procedure
    • 3.1 Dosage
  • 4 See also


  • Do not forget to boil the water before extraction. Otherwise, the chlorine might destroy all the alkaloids, leaving an inactive solution behind. Distilled water (available at many grocery stores) may also be used to avoid this step.
  • The seeds must not be purchased unless explicitly sold as untreated, as many easily-available seeds are coated with fungicides which can be toxic if consumed.
  • Different batches of seeds vary in potency so it is advised to use a low test dose be used to test the strength of the seeds and work your way up afterwards.
  • LSA is a substance that at toxic doses can cause vasoconstriction, meaning that your blood vessels shrink resulting in a decreased blood flow to your extremities (such as toes and fingers). This is not much of a concern unless you are taking heavy doses, and typically feels like a mild tingling sensation during most high dose trips that stops after the peak. This vasoconstriction can have long-term cumulative effects if repeated high doses of LSA are used for extended periods of time.


  • Untreated Hawaiian baby woodrose seeds (HBWR) or untreated morning glory seeds (can be easily acquired online)
  • Garlic clove
  • Orange juice or any other fruit juice of choice
  • A glass of boiled tap water (tap water may contain chlorine which can destroy LSA; boiling the water will remove the chlorine. One can also use distilled water without the need for boiling).


  1. The water should be boiled (inside an open container, i.e. not a pressure cooker) and left to cool down to room temperature. There is no specific measurement of water needed as the LSA will extract into it regardless, but a small glass is recommended so that the final product can be 1 part water and two parts fruit juice.
  2. Depending on the desired dosage, (Hawaiian baby woodrose [4 to 12 seeds]) or (Morning glory [50 to 250 seeds]) should be crushed using a mortar and pestle or a hammer and then put into the water.
  3. The water should be then put into a fridge for at least 4 hours or more and covered in something such as tinfoil or a paper bag to avoid exposure to light when the fridge is opened.
  4. After the water has been refrigerated; a finely chopped up garlic clove should be added to the water for 30 minutes and stirred periodically to reduce the nausea and “body load”. This is thought to work because the sulfur in garlic may act to remove the cyanogenic glycosides within the seed matter, although this has yet to be validated scientifically. It should be noted that LSA is capable of producing nausea on its own in a seemingly unpredictable fashion. [citation needed]
  5. A small amount of fruit juice can be added to help eliminate the taste of the seed matter.
  6. Sieve out the seed matter and garlic, and this can be discarded of. Sieving through a fine material such as an old t-shirt or a paper filter to remove every last bit of seed matter will help greatly.
  7. If these steps have been followed correctly, the cold water extraction is ready to consume.


When using morning glory seeds the dosages for oral consumption are generally considered to be:

  • Light: 50 – 100 seeds / 1.5 – 3 g
  • Common: 100 – 250 seeds / 3 – 6 g
  • Strong: 250 – 400 seeds / 6 – 10 g
  • Heavy: 400 + seeds / 10 + g

When using Hawaiian baby woodrose seeds the dosages for oral consumption are generally considered to be:

  • Threshold: 1 – 3 seeds
  • Light: 3 – 6 seeds
  • Common: 5 – 8 seeds
  • Strong: 7 – 12 seeds
  • Heavy: 12 + seeds

This article serves to document a procedure for the extraction of LSA from LSA-containing seeds which have not been subject to any additional preparation. ]]>